(continuer en français) – Last updated: December 26, 2022
Portobelo on the Atlantic coast of Panama served as a safe for the Spanish during the early days of colonisation, when the dominant idea was to extract as much gold and silver as possible and transport it to Spain.
Here it is necessary to look at a map. The Spanish empire in America had at first two viceroyalties, one established in Mexico City, the other in Lima. All the resources collected in the south passed through Lima, sailed to Panama, crossed the isthmus by land and re-embarked in Portobelo on their way to Spain.
Not much remains of the old town, which was founded in 1597 and was once so active. A large building overlooks the area, the Royal Customs House, which was built in 1638. The Customs saw the gold and treasures collected in the colonies pass through it. The king’s share was collected there.
On two floors, the large customs halls were used to store all kinds of goods heading for Europe. As a sign of maintenance neglect, today disparate pieces of public festival decorations are stored here.
Facing the port, the façade has collapsed, replaced by a wooden gallery, not comparable to the arcades of the past. Upstairs, a beautiful view extends over the bay and the fort.
After passing through the Royal Customs, the goods were loaded onto galleons bound for Europe. Such a concentration of wealth could only attract interest. Fort San Jeronimo was built to protect the port, the defence being based above all on an impressive battery of cannons capable of sweeping the bay.
Despite these defences being reinforced several times, Portobelo was captured by pirates in 1668 and by the English in 1739. This short-lived victory is said to have been at the origin of all the “Portebello” naming streets and squares in the British Empire.
Despite their classification as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980, the ruins of the fortifications are clearly not being properly maintained and continue to deteriorate. The parasite constructions in the immediate vicinity of the fortified compounds do not facilitate their presentation.
The Black Christ
Today’s city has a population of about 5,000 people but few ancient remains have survived outside the Customs and the fort. There is, however, the Church of San Felipe, whose construction began in 1606 and was completed in 1814, shortly before independence in 1821.
The church is home to the Black Christ, an icon celebrated on October 21st by several tens of thousands of pilgrims. This date refers to the cholera epidemic of 1831 which spared the city. On this occasion, the statue of Christ is carried in a procession following a traditional ceremony. The participants then begin a great night festival, often resulting in excesses.
There is also a more modest church, San Juan de Dios, built from the remains of a Catholic chapel dating back to 1589.
In the church square, a typical diablo rojo bus, red devil, is waiting for its passengers under the overwhelming midday sun.
Fuerte Santiago
Fort Santiago is located further ahead in the bay to block its access. It was built in 1753, after the English attack and to take into account the artillery progress.
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The canal, of course, obliterating the homonymous country and city. Though the capital of this small country cut in two by the canal has a much older history than the famous seaway. The marks of this past can be found scattered throughout an agglomeration that is a somewhat intimidating place for the visitor. It is important to know what to visit and to organize accordingly.
Portobelo, the Spanish safe
Portobelo on the Atlantic coast of Panama served as a safe for the Spanish during the early days of colonisation, when the dominant idea was to extract as much gold and silver as possible and transport it to Spain. All the resources collected in the south passed through Lima, then crossed the isthmus by land and re-embarked in Portobelo
Fuerte San Lorenzo
Since 1601, the San Lorenzo fort has guarded the entrance to the Rio Chagres. In combination with Portobelo, the fort contributed to the defence of the Caribbean coast of Panama.
Boquete and its coffee
The altitude provides Boquete with a pleasant, constant temperature all year round. Taking advantage of this climatic feature, many Westerners have long since settled there, notably to create coffee plantations.
Bocas del Toro
Bocas del Toro is the most successful Caribbean version resort in Panama. It is an archipelago of a dozen islands located at a short distance from the coast, half an hour by water taxi off the Atlantic coast. In the past it was a banana port, but after the crisis of the banana industry, it has been able to reconvert itself while keeping its character and without turning into a concrete town.
The Pan-American in Panama
The Pan-American Highway is one of the most attractive road trip dreams. From Prudhoe Bay in Alaska to Ushuaia in Argentina, the Pan-American Highway runs from one end of the American continent to the other for 15,000 miles.
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Lookoom 
An interesting history for sure. I can not imagine how much fun they had trying to protect all their ill gotten gold gains. Thanks for sharing. Allan
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It comes as no surprise that shipwrecks continue to be found at the bottom of the oceans, transport was perilous at the time. Thanks for reading.
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What a fascinating town. The customs building is sadly beautiful in its state of disrepair. If properly restored, this would be such an attractive place to visit on the water. Great post!
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It is always a bit sad to see ruins of several centuries neglected to the point of being threatened. This is more the result of ignorance, or even disinterest, than a lack of means. Fortunately, it is still possible to get an idea of this.
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The ruins of the fortifications are impressive, as is the history behind them. It’s too bad that they are deteriorating.
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This is true. It also gives a better appreciation of the efforts that are being made in Canada to preserve what is ancient, although more recent than in Panama.
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thanks for sharing looks like a really interesting place. Hopefully I make it to Panama one day because it’s been rising on my list of places to go this year!
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It is tempting to be content with just seeing the Canal, but if you look a little, there are still traces of a long history that preceded the Canal.
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Sad to hear the site is deteriorating. It is a loss of historic context that cannot be easily recovered.
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You are absolutely right. I hope that the increase in tourism will help to raise awareness.
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